In the heart of the beautiful city of Rio de Janeiro, in the middle of Plaza Maua, a lively scene attracts the attention of curious passersby: the largest outdoor festival dedicated to acarajé is underway. Originally from Bahia, this culinary specialty is prepared with passion by the baianas, women descended from slaves who perpetuate this ancestral art. This fried doughnut, with African origins, has conquered the taste buds of Brazilians and visitors from all over the world, becoming a must-have in local gastronomy.
Once reserved for Bahia, acarajé and the culture of the baianas are now experiencing a remarkable boom throughout the country. Made mainly from black-eyed beans, this dish is shaped using wooden and metal spoons, then dipped in palm oil to obtain that crunchy texture so appreciated. Once cooked, the fritter is split in two and filled with vatapá, also of African origin, and dried shrimp, offering an explosion of flavors in the mouth.
The Baiana de l’Acarajé festival, now in its second edition, has allowed many budding gastronomes to discover this exquisite delicacy for the first time. Ita Yani, a Japanese tourist present, does not fail to praise the delicacy of this preparation: “Delicious!”, she exclaims enthusiastically. But beyond its unforgettable flavor, acarajé is also charged with a deep cultural and religious dimension.
The baianas who make and sell acarajé perpetuate the traditions of the orixas, these African divinities venerated in Brazilian culture. It is important to note that acarajé was originally a ritual food offered during sacred ceremonies. Maura do Acarajé, one of those women proud of her heritage, proudly displays an image of Iansã, the orixa associated with this iconic dish.
Today, thanks to new municipal regulations, the baianas finally enjoy granted rights that allow them to set up their stalls almost anywhere and at any time of day in Rio, breaking centuries of restrictions and injustice. At the festival, a variation of acarajé, cut into small pieces and served on a platter, is also a hit. Okra cream and tomato salad complement the traditional vatapá and dried shrimp, offering a fusion of exquisite flavors.
For the baianas, making and selling acarajé is not just a job, but a true cultural tradition that must be protected and celebrated. These women, guardians of the Afro-Brazilian heritage, passionately transmit their know-how to each generation, thus ensuring the sustainability of this ancestral practice.
Indeed, for the Baianas, acarajé goes far beyond the simple preparation of a delicious dish. It is a symbol of resilience, struggle and pride. Each fried doughnut is a reflection of a story, a millenary cultural heritage that continues to live through these strong and determined women.
At the heart of this culinary and cultural effervescence, the crucial role of institutions, such as the National Historical and Artistic Heritage Institute of Brazil (Iphan), is highlighted. These organizations are actively committed to protecting and promoting acarajé as an intangible cultural heritage of the country, supporting the baianas in preserving their traditions and crafts.
Through these festivals and events dedicated to acarajé, the baianas of Rio de Janeiro do not just cook and sell doughnuts; they celebrate the history, culture and heritage of their people. Each bite of acarajé is a vibrant tribute to the richness and diversity of Brazilian heritage, a true feast for the senses and the soul.